“Rolesor” is Rolex’s term for steel-cased watches with gold bezels, and some people will tell you the term has been in use since 1933. Others believe the first two-tone Datejust was the original “Rolesor” model. Neither of these things can be verified, though. “Rolesor” is a marketing term that Rolex seemed to start leaning into around 2006. A modern Rolesor watch includes both 904L steel and 18k gold parts (although they used the term slightly differently in the 1970’s). It’s not an alloy, mind you, just a word for gold and steel parts sitting next to each other. Here’s a quick breakdown of the Rolex Rolesor metal combo.
“Rolesor” is essentially interchangeable with the term “two-tone” (or “bimetal” for our European friends), except for the fact that Rolex calls steel models with white gold fluted bezels “white Rolesor.” Collectors don’t call those two-tone; we just call them…steel watches with fluted bezels. Nobody actually says “Rolesor” at all. Regardless, let’s go over the history of the term.
Origins
Rolex claims that “in 1933 the name ‘Rolesor’ was registered to designate the combination of two different materials” but I don’t quite buy that. I think they registered it, well, for the hell of it. They trademarked all sorts of cool-sounding trademarks that they never used. And sometimes the meaning of a trademark changes over time.
Originally, “Rolesium” was a proprietary early stainless steel alloy, and then 70 years later Rolex decided “Rolesium” meant “steel and also platinum.” So I think it’s likely that “Rolesor” was originally intended to be a proprietary gold alloy (“Rolex or” literally means “Rolex gold” in French). Rolex was one of the first (if not the first) brands to popularize two-tone watches around 1930, but the earliest mention of the term “Rolesor” in Rolex literature that I can find is from the 1970’s. In those days, “Rolesor” specifically meant yellow gold and steel. The catalogs at the time did not refer to stainless watches with white gold bezels as “white Rolesor,” and two-tone watches with rose gold weren’t offered then.
When the first two-tone GMT-Master II came out in 2006 (ref. 116713), Rolex began leaning into the “Rolesor” terminology hard, and they’ve never looked back.
What is Rolesor, Exactly?
There are three categories of Rolex Rolesor watches, all made with combinations of 904L steel (which Rolex now calls “Oystersteel”) and 18k gold. Here are the parts that are actually gold (not including the hour markers and hands, which are always gold on a modern Rolex):
- Yellow Rolesor – Yellow gold crown*, bezel, and center links. The case and the rest of the bracelet are steel.
- White Rolesor – White gold bezel. The case, crown and the bracelet are steel.
- Everose Rolesor – Everose gold crown*, bezel, and center links. The case and the rest of the bracelet are steel.
*Except for two-tone Yacht-Masters, which have steel crowns
While Rolex says that “Rolesor” specifically refers to 904L steel + 18k gold, note that until at least the late 1980’s, they used 316L steel and in some cases 14k gold.
Most Popular Rolesor Watches
Two-tone watches aren’t as popular as full stainless steel ones, generally, but they’re hotter with enthusiasts than they were in decades past. The “Bluesy” Submariner Date and Root Beer GMT are probably the most popular ones, and two-tone Sky-Dwellers and Daytonas have strong demand too.
In years past (before 2018 or so) it would’ve been almost unthinkable to have to get on a Rolex waiting list for a Rolesor model. Nowadays, however, you’ll probably have to wait for most two-tone sports Rolexes–but not too long in most cases. Steel Sky-Dwellers with mint dials are very popular, too, and they have white gold bezels–which makes them the hottest “white Rolesor” Rolexes in the lineup.
Why Rolex Should Drop the Term
First of all, nobody says “Rolesor” and there’s a good reason for that: it’s confusing. Often, new Rolex enthusiasts assume that the center bracelet links of “white Rolesor” Datejusts are white gold. That’s a reasonable assumption, because two-tone Datejusts with yellow gold or rose gold bezels have gold center links, but the bracelet is all steel on white Rolesor models.
Other newcomers to the Rolex world will assume “Rolesor” is a cool proprietary gold/steel alloy of some sort. That’s also a reasonable assumption, but no…it’s just a word for gold and steel sitting next to each other. Please, Rolex: We say “two-tone,” “bimetal,” or (in the case of white Rolesor) “steel with a fluted bezel.” Stop trying to make “Rolesor” happen. It’s not gonna happen.
More on Rolex:
Rolex Milgauss Collector’s Guide
Rolex Price Increase 2024: Gold and Two-Tone Prices Rise in the US on June 1
A Collector’s Guide to the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710
Rolex Plans to Improve Vintage Servicing Capability by 2026
Rolex 16610 Submariner: A Collector’s Guide
