Originally published March 11, 2024. Updated June 3, 2024.

Audemars Piguet made a big splash in early 2024 by releasing an enormous batch of new watches including Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, and Code 11.59 pieces. The brand followed it up with another drop of new timepieces in the middle of the year. From never-before-seen materials and limited edition collaborations to fresh iterations of some fan favorites, let’s get to all the 2024 Audemars Piguet watch releases.

[RE]Master02

Other Recent AP Releases:
Audemars Piguet Just Dropped the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Spider-Man
Six New Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Watches Now In Steel
New Royal Oak Offshore in Full Ceramic

In what the brand calls a “Tribute to Brutalism,” the unconventional [RE]Master02 watch launched in 2024 is inspired by the reference 5159BA from 1960, of which only seven examples were made. As the number two in the name suggests, this is the second reinterpretation of a vintage Audemars Piguet watch to join the brand’s modern catalog; the first was the 2020 [RE]Master01 based on a chronograph from 1943.

Limited to 250 pieces and sporting a 41mm asymmetrical 41mm rectangular case in Sand Gold (more on AP’s proprietary Sand Gold material further down this article), the [RE]Master02 features a dial in the blue color dubbed “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” — the same dark blue to black shade iconic to the first Royal Oak from the 1970s. The distinctive parted dial is segmented into 12 triangles, decorated with a linear satin finish and home to a pair of hands for the hours and minutes. The 2024 Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 runs on the 52-hour power reserve Caliber 7129 automatic movement, visible from the caseback.

Model	[RE]Master02
Reference	15240SG.OO.A347CR.01
Case Material	18k sand gold
Case Size	Asymmetrical 41mm across 9.7mm thick
Dial	Blue “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50″ Parted in 12 triangles Linear satin finishing
Bracelet	Blue alligator leather Sand gold pin buckle
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 7129 52-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)	$47,200 Limited to 250 pieces

Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz

We’ve said it many times before but small watches are having a moment — and in 2024, Audemars Piguet is more than happy to oblige with a new set of “Mini Oak” watches in frosted gold. Available in yellow, white, and rose gold, these small Royal Oak watches measure a dainty 23mm in diameter, which is only slightly larger than the 1997 20mm Royal Oaks they’re inspired by.

The Mini Oak watches may be petite in proportions but they still pack a punch thanks to their frosted gold finish, characterized by an intricate hammered surface that mimics diamond dust. The time-only dials, which are decorated with the famed Petite Tapisserie hobnail pattern, are rendered in a shade to match the cases and bracelets. Inside the 2024 Mini Oak watches are quartz movements with a seven-year battery life.

Model	Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 33mm
Reference	67630BA.GG.1312BA.01 – Yellow Frosted Gold 67630OR.GG.1312OR.01 – Rose Frosted Gold 67630BC.GG.1312BC.01 – White Frosted Gold
Case Size	33mm diameter 16.6mm thick
Dial	Petite Tapisserie pattern
Bracelet	Hammered 18k gold bracelet with AP folding clasp.
Movement	Caliber 2730 Quarts powered 94-month battery life
Functions	Hours and minutes
Retail Prices (MSRP)	$34,000

Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm

For 2024, Audemars Piguet is also expanding its Frosted Gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm collection with two new models —one in yellow gold and one in white gold — both furnished with special “Crystal Sand” finished dials.

Between the hammered finish of the case and bracelet and the crystal-like surface of the dial, these monochromatic Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm watches lean on texture and light for contrast rather than colors. As is customary for 34mm Royal Oaks since 2020, this pair of AP watches runs on Caliber 5800, a self-winding movement with 50 hours of power reserve.

Model	Royal Oak Frosted Selfwinding 34
References	77450BA.GG.1361BA.01 – Yellow Frosted Gold 77450BC.GG.1361BC.01 – White Frosted Gold
Case	34mm diameter 8.8mm thick
Dial	Electroformed “Crystal Sand” dial in yellow gold or rhodium
Bracelet	Hammered 18k gold bracelet with AP folding clasp
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 5800 50-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)	$62,100

Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

A pair of new references joins the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm lineup, one in white gold with a light blue inner bezel and a one in pink gold with a purple inner bezel. The dials offer a view of the striking open-worked Caliber 3132 inside the watches.

In addition to the case-matching integrated bracelets, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked models also come with an additional leather strap, color-matched to the inner bezel rings.

Model	Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm
References	15467OR.OO.1256OR.02- Rose Gold 15467BC.OO.1256BC.01 – White Gold
Case	37mm diameter 10mm thick
Dial	Blue or purple inner bezel
Bracelet/Strap	18k gold integrated bracelet Additional leather strap (blue or purple)
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 3132 45-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, center seconds,
Retail Price (MSRP)	$98,100

Chroma Ceramic and Chroma Gold

Among all the new watches Audemars Piguet has released in 2024, the watchmaker has also announced some innovative materials. For instance, in March, AP unveiled Chroma Ceramic with a multi-colored camouflage pattern, created via the latest Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS) technology.

A few months later, Chroma Gold was added to AP’s slate of innovative materials, combining various shades of gold into one pattern.

With the announcement of these cutting-edge materials, it’s only a matter of time before AP will add watches crafted from Chroma Ceramic and Chroma Gold to its collection.

Gem-Set Code 11.59 Watches

AP added a pair of gem-set Code 11.59 watches to its lineup in 2024, both featuring 38mm cases and offered in 18k white or pink gold. The watches boast dials set with 533 diamonds and colored sapphires, resulting in bold bejeweled versions of the AP Code 11.59.

Driving the trio of time-telling hands on the gem-paved dials is the Caliber 5909 automatic movement, visible through the display caseback and supplying 60 hours of power reserve.

Model	Code 11.59
References	77410BC.ZZ.D132CR.01 – White Gold 77410OR.ZZ.D343CR.01 – Pink Gold
Case	38mm diameter 9.6mm thick
Dial	Dial set with 533 gradient pink sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds Dial set with 533 gradient blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds
Bracelet/Strap	Pearly gray alligator strap with white gold AP folding clasp set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds Pearly dark blue alligator strap with white gold AP folding clasp set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 5909 60-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, center seconds,
Retail Price (MSRP)	$98,100

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition

No stranger to collaborations, Audemars Piguet has now teamed up with the most high-profile celebrity watch collector —musician John Mayer. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition is fashioned from 18k white gold and houses a deep blue textured dial that the brand calls “Crystal Sky.” The captivating dial features sharp angles and facets to mimic crystals, which were formed via a metal deposition process known as electroforming.

Aside from the new dial pattern, John Mayer also added other subtle modifications such as replacing the customary red “31” on the date indication with a white one that’s also smaller and stepped. He also opted for a light blue date pointer with the idea that it could fade into the background when not needed but also be easy to spot when necessary.

Like preceding Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watches, the “John Mayer” runs on the extra-thin Caliber 5134 automatic movement, which debuted in 2015 but is based on the legendary Caliber 2120/2800 released in 1978. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition will be the swan song of Caliber 5134. John Mayer has also been bestowed the “Creative Conduit” title by Audemars Piguet, so expect more creations from the mind of the musician in the near future.

Model	Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, “John Mayer” Limited Edition
Reference	26574BC.OO.1220BC.02
Case Material	18k white gold
Case Size	41mm diameter 9.5mm thick
Dial	Blue “Crystal Sky”
Bracelet	18k white gold
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 5134 40-hour power reserve
Functions	Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours, and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)	$180,700 Limited to 200 pieces

Further Reading:
What is a Perpetual Calendar Watch? 

Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in Sand Gold

Audemars Piguet debuted a brand new 18k gold alloy called Sand Gold, which sits somewhere between white and pink gold and changes color depending on how the light hits it. According to the brand, Sand Gold is also fade-resistant. AP introduced the new material on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41, complete with matching sand-gold-toned bridges and mainplate in the visible movement. That movement is Caliber 2972, introduced in 2022 for the Royal Oak’s 50^th anniversary.

The open-worked dial is home to a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, accompanied by white gold hour and minute hands at the center and white gold hour markers along the sand-gold-toned rehaut. The 41mm sand gold case is paired with a matching sand gold integrated bracelet.

Model	Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
Reference	26735SG.OO.1320SG.01
Case Material	18k sand gold
Case Size	41mm diameter 10.6mm thick
Dial	Open-worked with white gold applied hour markers and hands
Bracelet	18k sand gold
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 2972 65-hour power reserve
Functions	Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)	CHF  250,000 (approx. $285,000)

Further Reading:
What is a Tourbillon Watch? 

Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in White Gold

Audemars Piguet is expanding its Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked collection with a white gold version, set to join the already-existing pink gold, yellow gold, and white gold variants.

Like its predecessors, the white gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked features a 39mm case, topped with the signature octagonal bezel and paired with the famed integrated AP bracelet. The skeletonized dial provides a view of the Caliber 7124 automatic movement beating away inside the watch, treated in different shades of anthracite grey to retain the sleek monochromatic tone of the watch while also providing appealing contrasts.

Model	Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked
Reference	16204BC.00.1240BC.01
Case Material	18k white gold
Case Size	39mm diameter 8.1mm thick
Dial	Open-worked with white gold applied hour-markers and hands
Bracelet	18k sand gold
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 7124 57-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)	$124,100

Further Reading:
Guide to Audemars Piguet Nicknames
How Much Does An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Cost?

Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm in Yellow Gold

A new variation of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm joins the line, this time in 18k yellow gold. Along with the yellow gold case and bracelet, Audemars Piguet opted to use a yellow gold-toned Grand Tapisserie dial that darkens to black at the periphery. We’ve seen this dial execution before on another yellow gold watch by AP — the 50th anniversary “Jumbo” — and it’s a great look on a solid gold timepiece. The dial includes a trio of gold-toned counters, a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, and 18k yellow gold hands and hour markers.

The sapphire caseback shows off the automatic Caliber 4401 flyback chronograph movement powering the piece, ticking at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour and supplying 70 hours of power reserve.

Model	Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm
Reference	26240BA.OO.1320BA.02
Case Material	18k yellow gold
Case Size	41mm diameter 12.4mm thick
Dial	Smoked yellow gold-toned dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern, applied yellow gold hour-markers and hands
Bracelet	18k yellow gold
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 4401 70-hour power reserve
Functions	Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)	$75,900

2024 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm

A pair of new Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon variants were added to the AP catalog, one in pink gold and the other in stainless steel. The pink gold model is paired with a sandblasted gray dial whereas the steel version is fitted with a smoked burgundy sunburst dial.

Both versions sport 41mm cases and matching integrated bracelets. The star of the dial is the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, accompanied only by the duo of time-telling hands at the center. At the heart of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon watches is the automatic Calibre 2950 movement, visible through the sapphire caseback.

Model	Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm
Reference	26730ST.OO.1320ST.05 – Stainless Steel 26730OR.OO.1320OR.03 – Pink Gold
Case Size	41mm diameter 10.6mm thick
Dial	Smoked burgundy sunburst dial, white gold applied hour markers and hands (26730ST) Sandblasted grey dial with ivory minute scale, pink gold applied hour markers and hands (26730OR)
Bracelet	Stainless Steel (26730ST) Pink Gold (26730OR)
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 2950 65-hour power reserve
Functions	Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Retail Prices (MSRP)	Ref. 26730ST: CHF 146,700 (Approx $167,500) Ref. 26730OR: CHF 180,600 (Approx $206,200)

2024 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm

If you’re familiar with Royal Oak Offshore models, you’ll know that the vast majority of them are chronographs. On rare occasions, such as this model that’s part of the 2024 Audemars Piguet watch releases, will introduce a non-chronograph version. Meet the time-and-date Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding in stainless steel and blue rubber.

The 43mm steel case is crowned with a blue rubber-coated octagonal bezel, which matches the blue rubber strap beautifully (an additional black rubber strap accompanies the watch). The color theme continues with the smoked blue Méga Tapisserie dial, home to the trio of hands at the center and a color-matched date window at 3 o’clock. There are also resigned crown guards that are more shapely than previous versions. The sapphire caseback reveals the automatic Caliber 4302 powering the new Royal Oak Offshore.

Model	Royal Oak Offshore 43mm
Reference	15605SK.OO.A350CA.01
Case Material	Stainless steel
Case Size	43mm diameter 14.4mm thick
Dial	Smoked blue dial with Méga Tapisserie pattern, rhodium-toned gold applied hour-markers and hands
Bracelet	Blue rubber strap
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 4302 70-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)	$27,800

Further Reading:
All About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold 37mm

Frosted gold has been a favorite decorative technique of Audemars Piguet over the last few years, cherished for its textured hammered finish and shimmery effect. The latest version to join the lineup is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold 37mm in yellow gold.

Again, we see that vintage-inspired smoked gold dial but this time, on a flat surface rather than a patterned tapisserie. The dial includes a date window at 3 o’clock whereas the back of the watch shows us the new-gen Caliber 5900 automatic movement that drives the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm models.

Model	Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold 37mm
Reference	15550BA.GG.1356BA.01
Case Material	Yellow gold, hammered finish
Case Size	37mm diameter 9.1mm thick
Dial	Smoked yellow-gold-toned dial with sunburst motif, yellow gold applied hour markers and hands
Bracelet	Yellow gold
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 5900 60-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)	$66,300

Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm Gem-Set

The 2024 Audemars Piguet watch releases wouldn’t be complete without a gem set model— or two! AP unveils a pair of lavish Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm watches, one in white gold with diamonds and the other in pink gold with diamonds and sapphires.

The case and bezel of the white gold gem-set Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm includes 122 brilliant-cut diamonds, in addition to 40 brilliant-cut diamonds across the four studs that span across the case and strap. This version is combined with a light green Grande Tapisserie dial and a pearly green alligator strap.

On the other hand, the case of the pink gold gem-set Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm piece includes 82 brilliant-cut diamonds (and 40 brilliant-cut diamonds on the studs) while the bezel is set with 40 brilliant-cut graded blue sapphires. Complementing the bezel are the light blue Grande Tapisserie dial and the light blue pearly alligator strap.

Model	Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm Gem-Set
References	15551BC.ZZ.D405CR.01 (White Gold) 15551OR.ZS.D344CR.01 (Pink Gold)
Case Material	18k white gold case and bezel set with 122 brilliant-cut diamonds; studs set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds 18k pink gold case set with 82 brilliant-cut diamonds; bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut graded blue sapphires; studs set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds
Case Size	37mm diameter 9.0mm thick
Dial	Light green Grande Tapisserie Light blue Grande Tapisserie
Bracelet	Pearly green alligator strap Pearly blue alligator strap
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 5900 60-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)	$65,900

Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3)

Audemars Piguet is expanding its Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) line with a new 18k white gold version in 37mm. The white gold case is further embellished with baguette-cut diamonds while the Petite Tapisserie dial is rendered in smoked blue and punctuated with diamond hour markers and a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

This is the third iteration of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3), the first two (one in 39mm and the other in 37mm) were made in steel and released to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary. Like the others, the white gold Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) runs on the ultra-thin automatic Caliber 2968, which measures a mere 3.4mm thick.

Model	Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3)
Reference	26660BC.ZZ.1356BC.01
Case Material	White gold case, bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds
Case Size	37mm diameter 8.1mm thick
Dial	Smoked blue dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern, 12 baguette-cut diamond hour markers
Bracelet	White gold
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 2968 50-hour power reserve
Functions	Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes.
Retail Price (MSRP)	CHF 240,000 (Approx. $274,000)

Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm

Another 2024 Audemars Piguet watch release is the duo of new Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm watches, one in pink gold and the other in two-tone steel and pink gold.

The two-tone variant is furnished with a gray dial whereas the full gold version flaunts a vivid pink dial. Both versions run on the automatic Caliber 5800 movement, which offers about 50 hours of power reserve.

Model	Royal Oak Selfwinding 34
References	77450SR.OO.1361SR.03 (Stainless Steel/Pink Gold) 77450OR.OO.1361OR.01 (Pink Gold)
Case Material	Stainless steel case, 18-carat pink gold bezel and crown 18k pink gold case
Case Size	34mm diameter 8.8mm thick
Dial	Gray Grande Tapisserie Pink Grande Tapisserie
Bracelet	Two-tone steel/pink gold Pink gold
Movement	Self-winding Caliber 5800 50-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)	77450SR: $28,700 77450OR: $53,000

2024 Audemars Piguet Code 11.59

Released in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection introduced 13 references and three new movements simultaneously. The then-new line included time-and-date, chronograph, minute repeater Supersonnerie, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar models. Five years on, Audemars Piguet continues to expand the Code 11.59 range with fresh iterations. As part of its 2024 releases, AP is unveiling seven new Code 11.59 references, in 38mm and 41mm, all crafted in 18k pink gold.

The first two are Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm versions, both in pink gold but one with a light blue dial and light blue alligator strap and the other with a dark blue “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial and a matching dark blue alligator strap. These smaller versions are powered by Caliber 5900 with 50 hours of power reserve.

The next two are the pink gold Code 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm watches, one with a “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dark blue dial and the other with a dark green dial. Both versions are equipped with textured rubber straps that match their respective dials. These variants run on Caliber 4302, a self-winding movement with 70 hours of power reserve.

Finally, the last three are the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm models, available in green, blue, and black. The green and blue versions sport full pink gold cases whereas the black version includes a black ceramic and pink gold case. Yet again, the trio of Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41m watches are fitted with textured rubber straps color-matched to the dials. Powering the chronographs is the Caliber 4401 self-winding movement with 70 hours of power reserve.

2024 Audemars Piguet Releases: More to Come?

As of May 2024, Audemars Piguet has dropped two major batches of new watches. Will we see more later on in the year? Yes, I wouldn’t be surprised if the watchmaker from Le Brassus has more up its sleeve before the end of the year. As always, stay tuned to Grey Market Magazine for any updates from Audemars Piguet.

Learn More:
Audemars Piguet’s North American Service Center Will Move to Raleigh, NC

“Rolesor” is Rolex’s term for steel-cased watches with gold bezels, and some people will tell you the term has been in use since 1933. Others believe the first two-tone Datejust was the original “Rolesor” model. Neither of these things can be verified, though. “Rolesor” is a marketing term that Rolex seemed to start leaning into around 2006. A modern Rolesor watch includes both 904L steel and 18k gold parts (although they used the term slightly differently in the 1970’s). It’s not an alloy, mind you, just a word for gold and steel parts sitting next to each other. Here’s a quick breakdown of the Rolex Rolesor metal combo.

“Rolesor” is essentially interchangeable with the term “two-tone” (or “bimetal” for our European friends), except for the fact that Rolex calls steel models with white gold fluted bezels “white Rolesor.” Collectors don’t call those two-tone; we just call them…steel watches with fluted bezels. Nobody actually says “Rolesor” at all. Regardless, let’s go over the history of the term.

Origins

Rolex claims that “in 1933 the name ‘Rolesor’ was registered to designate the combination of two different materials” but I don’t quite buy that. I think they registered it, well, for the hell of it. They trademarked all sorts of cool-sounding trademarks that they never used. And sometimes the meaning of a trademark changes over time.

Originally, “Rolesium” was a proprietary early stainless steel alloy, and then 70 years later Rolex decided “Rolesium” meant “steel and also platinum.” So I think it’s likely that “Rolesor” was originally intended to be a proprietary gold alloy (“Rolex or” literally means “Rolex gold” in French). Rolex was one of the first (if not the first) brands to popularize two-tone watches around 1930, but the earliest mention of the term “Rolesor” in Rolex literature that I can find is from the 1970’s. In those days, “Rolesor” specifically meant yellow gold and steel. The catalogs at the time did not refer to stainless watches with white gold bezels as “white Rolesor,” and two-tone watches with rose gold weren’t offered then.

When the first two-tone GMT-Master II came out in 2006 (ref. 116713), Rolex began leaning into the “Rolesor” terminology hard, and they’ve never looked back.

What is Rolesor, Exactly?

There are three categories of Rolex Rolesor watches, all made with combinations of 904L steel (which Rolex now calls “Oystersteel”) and 18k gold. Here are the parts that are actually gold (not including the hour markers and hands, which are always gold on a modern Rolex):

• Yellow Rolesor – Yellow gold crown*, bezel, and center links. The case and the rest of the bracelet are steel.
• White Rolesor – White gold bezel. The case, crown and the bracelet are steel.
• Everose Rolesor – Everose gold crown*, bezel, and center links. The case and the rest of the bracelet are steel.

^{*Except for two-tone Yacht-Masters, which have steel crowns}

While Rolex says that “Rolesor” specifically refers to 904L steel + 18k gold, note that until at least the late 1980’s, they used 316L steel and in some cases 14k gold.

Most Popular Rolesor Watches

Two-tone watches aren’t as popular as full stainless steel ones, generally, but they’re hotter with enthusiasts than they were in decades past. The “Bluesy” Submariner Date and Root Beer GMT are probably the most popular ones, and two-tone Sky-Dwellers and Daytonas have strong demand too.

In years past (before 2018 or so) it would’ve been almost unthinkable to have to get on a Rolex waiting list for a Rolesor model. Nowadays, however, you’ll probably have to wait for most two-tone sports Rolexes–but not too long in most cases. Steel Sky-Dwellers with mint dials are very popular, too, and they have white gold bezels–which makes them the hottest “white Rolesor” Rolexes in the lineup.

Why Rolex Should Drop the Term

First of all, nobody says “Rolesor” and there’s a good reason for that: it’s confusing. Often, new Rolex enthusiasts assume that the center bracelet links of “white Rolesor” Datejusts are white gold. That’s a reasonable assumption, because two-tone Datejusts with yellow gold or rose gold bezels have gold center links, but the bracelet is all steel on white Rolesor models.

Other newcomers to the Rolex world will assume “Rolesor” is a cool proprietary gold/steel alloy of some sort. That’s also a reasonable assumption, but no…it’s just a word for gold and steel sitting next to each other. Please, Rolex: We say “two-tone,” “bimetal,” or (in the case of white Rolesor) “steel with a fluted bezel.” Stop trying to make “Rolesor” happen. It’s not gonna happen.

More on Rolex:
Rolex Milgauss Collector’s Guide
Rolex Price Increase 2024: Gold and Two-Tone Prices Rise in the US on June 1
A Collector’s Guide to the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710
Rolex Plans to Improve Vintage Servicing Capability by 2026
Rolex 16610 Submariner: A Collector’s Guide

If you asked watch collectors about the fate of the Milgauss just a few years ago, the majority would have either told you the collection was slated for a long-overdue upgrade or would be discontinued entirely.  Sadly, the latter proved to be true.  The Rolex Milgauss was quietly discontinued in 2023 for the second time since it joined the professional series lineup in the 1950s. It was often overshadowed by more function-forward models such as the Submariner, Explorer II, and GMT-Master.  While those collections appeal to the adventurous at heart, the Rolex Milgauss served a different purpose: to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss (hence the name “Milgauss) by incorporating a soft iron Faraday cage into the case. The Milgauss earned a very niche audience, but the ubiquity of high magnetic resistance in modern luxury watches might have led to its downfall. This guide will cover everything you need to know about Rolex’s discontinued scientist’s watch.

What is the Rolex Soft Iron Faraday Cage?

The concept of the Faraday cage is quite simple.  The conductive iron disperses magnetic interference, preventing it from entering the cage and essentially acting as a shield for whatever is inside of it. As you can imagine, the Faraday cage required a slightly thicker case than other Rolex sports watches.

The idea of a Faraday cage wasn’t new when Rolex dreamt up the Milgauss, and the Crown wasn’t even the first company to produce a mechanical wristwatch with a Faraday cage enveloping the movement. IWC released the Ingenieur Ref. 1832 around the same time, initially creating the watch to help pilots keep accurate time among the magnetic instruments in their cockpits during WWII. It doesn’t really matter if Rolex made a faraday cage before IWC, though, because Tissot beat them both by a quarter-century.

Rolex Milgauss Timeline

1954/1955:	Rolex developed the first Milguass, “prototype” ref. 6543.
1956:	The second iteration of the Milgauss, ref. 6541 was released, complete with the now-iconic lightning bolt seconds hand.
1960:	Rolex Released Ref. 1019.
1988:	Ref. 1019 is discontinued.
2007:	The Milgauss made a comeback via ref. 116400.
2014:	The “Z-Blue” Milgauss with a Glace Verte crystal joined the lineup.
2023:	Rolex once again discontinued the Milgauss.

The First Generation: Ref. 6543 & 6541

The inaugural Milgauss developed in the 1950s, ref. 6543, looked vastly different than the 6-digit generation that recently ushered the collection into retirement. Like other professional series watches developed around the same time, it had a rotatable bezel calibrated to 60 minutes and luminescent dot hour markers. However, the distinctive honeycomb dial set the Milgauss apart.

Although visually striking, the crosshatch texture served a purpose and was made of metal to aid the watch’s overall magnetic resistance. Ref. 6543 had dauphine hands and was produced in very limited quantities of a few hundred watches. Like all Rolex Milgauss models, it utilized the previously-mentioned soft-iron Faraday cage to shield the movement from magnetic interference, but 6543 is the only one with a thick, one-piece caseback.

Rolex Milgauss Ref. 6543 Specs

Case Size:	38mm
Lugs:	19.5mm
Case Material:	Stainless Steel
Movement:	Caliber 1065/66, Automatic
Functions:	Time-Only, Soft-Iron Faraday Cage
Bezel:	Rotatable, 60-Minutes
Seconds Hand:	Straight
Crystal:	Acrylic
Dial:	Black Honeycomb

Ref. 6541 followed a few years later with an “inner caseback” that looks like a metal X-Men logo inside the caseback. This completed the Faraday cage without so much thickness. The Rolex Milgauss 6541 features the same iconic honeycomb dial as the 6543, but a slightly different rotatable bezel.  It was still calibrated to 60 minutes, but the zeroes were omitted–so “1-2-3-4-5” appeared on the bezel instead of “10-20-30-40-50.” Also, the hash marks were triangular, but that’s not the most important design change. It was through reference 6541 that we also got our first glimpse of one of the collection’s most distinguishing feature: the quirky lightning bolt seconds hand.

It’s important to note that there are some versions of ref. 6541 with a smooth bezel, which some say were made for the American market. Like the inaugural Milgauss, Rolex didn’t make very many ref. 6541s.  Both versions of the early Milgauss are incredibly elusive, particularly examples with all the correct original parts still intact. Many 6541’s have Submariner-like service replacement bezels at this point:

Rolex Milgauss Ref. 6541 Specs

Case Size:	38mm
Lugs:	20mm
Case Material:	Stainless Steel
Movement:	Caliber 1065/66, Automatic
Functions:	Time-Only, Soft-Iron Faraday Cage
Bezel:	Rotatable, 60-Minutes, or Smooth
Seconds Hand:	Lightning Bolt
Crystal:	Acrylic
Dial:	Black Honeycomb

The Second Generation: Ref. 1019

The next expression of the Milgauss came in the 1960s.  Rolex decided not to carry over the lightning bolt seconds hand, rotatable bezel, or honeycomb dial from the first two references, opting instead for a sleeker, more luxurious design more reminiscent of traditional dress watches, such as the Oyster Perpetual.  Instead, ref. 1019 was outfitted with a smooth bezel, straight seconds hand, and a few dial options, including black or a silver brushed dial.

Rolex kept ref. 1019 in its catalog until the 1980s, during which a few iterations came to market, including rare models without luminescent material on the dial made exclusively for CERN – the European Organization for Nuclear Research. Particle physicists there didn’t want any radioactive material whatsoever interfering with their instruments, which is why Rolex made the famous “CERN” Milgausses with black vitreous enamel instead of lume.

Additionally, ref. 1019 dials initially had small Rolex logos and a seconds track marked down to a fraction of a second, while later-production dials had larger Rolex logos and a traditional seconds track. Depending on when the watch was made, the hands will either be polished and slightly raised in the middle or flat and matte. Even though ref. 1019 spanned several decades, it was never as successful as other professional series models.  Ultimately, Rolex discontinued the collection entirely around the late 1980s.

Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 Specs

Case Size:	38mm
Case Material:	Stainless Steel
Movement:	Caliber 1580 Automatic
Functions:	Time-Only, Soft-Iron Faraday Cage
Bezel:	Smooth
Seconds Hand:	Straight
Crystal:	Acrylic
Dial:	Black, Silver

The Third Generation: Ref. 116400

The scientist’s watch was revived in the mid-2000s, this time under ref. 116400 with either a white dial with orange hour markers or a black dial with white and orange hour markers.  The re-release watch also included a black dial variation with a green “Glace Verte” sapphire crystal, a feature that was exclusive to the Milgauss collection.

It recalled design elements from both previous generations by featuring a smooth bezel and a lightning bolt seconds hand.  At the same time, it was undeniably modern with a slightly larger 40mm case, fully-lume baton hour markers, and a vibrant orange lightning bolt seconds hand.  Perhaps the most notable change was the movement. The caliber 3131 was still protected by the collection’s trusty soft-iron Faraday cage but now also incorporated the then-new Rolex Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and an escape wheel made of anti-magnetic metals.

Rolex stopped producing the models with a clear sapphire crystal a few years after the ref. 116400 was released, selling only the Glace Verte (GV) variation with either a black or Z-Blue dial until the very end. The rest is, as they say, history because the Milgauss was discontinued again in 2023.

Rolex Milgauss Ref. 116400 Specs:

Case Size:	40mm
Case Material:	Stainless Steel
Movement:	Caliber 3131
Functions:	Time-Only, Soft-Iron Faraday Cage
Bezel:	Smooth
Seconds Hand:	Orange Lightning Bolt
Crystal:	Clear or Green “Glace Verte” Sapphire Crystal
Dial:	Black, White, Z-Blue

How Much is the Rolex Milgauss?

References 6543 and 6541 can command well into the six figures because they are so rare.  In what might be a one-off incident, an example of the ref. 6541 sold at auction in 2023 for a staggering $2.5 million. However, there is speculation that Rolex bought the watch, which does not necessarily reflect a rising value for the recently discontinued collection.  In fact, it only encourages more collectors with vintage models in their watch boxes to sell.

Reference 1019, which was produced for decades and is much more prominent on the secondary market, trades hands for anywhere between $15,000 and $30,000. The newly-discontinued ref. 116400 is even more approachable, with prices starting around $8,000 and climbing up to about $15,000.

The big question now is, why was the Rolex Milgauss discontinued?  Anti-magnetism up to 1,000 gauss was groundbreaking when the Rolex Milgauss was introduced in the 1950s. However, the industry has far surpassed that technology, and now that the Parachrom hairspring exists, it renders the model almost entirely obsolete. Not to mention, the Faraday cage requires a thicker case. Will Rolex re-release the Milgauss?  If they do, we will see the triumphant return of the Milgauss with a rotatable bezel and, dare I say it, a honeycomb dial? Only time will tell.  However, with Rolex’s track record, we might have to wait decades to find out.

More on Rolex:
Rolex Plans to Improve Vintage Servicing Capability by 2026
What is a Rolex Coke GMT?
The Rolex Waiting List Explained: 2024 Edition
Rare Rolex Watches: A Collector’s Guide
Here’s Every Model Rolex Discontinued in 2024

Rolex kicked off 2024 with a Vienna Philharmonic New Year’s concert and a bunch of price increases around the world. Rolex price increases didn’t happen in every country, though; the United States and Switzerland were spared–at first. Rolex released an updated US price list effective June 1, 2024 that includes increases for all gold and Rolesor (two-tone) models. Australia, Canada and India had faced some of the steepest price jumps in January, with most of Europe facing more moderate increases. While many people are under the impression that Rolex increases prices every year, it really is mostly about keeping in line with inflation in various currencies–and precious metal prices play a role too. Here’s a brief breakdown of the Rolex 2024 price increases.

How Much Did Rolex Prices Increase in 2024?

USA	0-4.5%
Switzerland	No increase
Europe (except Switzerland)	Approximately 5-6%
Canada, Taiwan, India	Approximately 6-8.5%
Australia	Approximately 8-10%

Which Rolex Watch Prices Jumped the Most?

Percentage-wise, steel and two-tone Rolex models seemed to increase slightly more than precious metal models in January (in most countries). Interestingly, though, the June 2024 US price increase only applies to gold and two-tone models. Platinum and steel prices are unchanged here in the States, and given gold’s high prices, that’s fairly understandable. Gold Day-Dates are about 4.2% more expensive now, for example, while two-tone models increased between roughly 1.8%-3.5%.

Does Rolex Increase Prices Every Year?

No, not in every currency. From 2012 until early 2020, there were no Rolex price increases in the USA. Meanwhile, prices in Brazil increased three times in 2018 alone.

When Does Rolex Update Prices?

Historically, Rolex price increases occur on January 1 across the board. But in extreme cases, if a currency is becoming excessively devalued, Rolex will make price adjustments during the year as necessary (as with Brazil in 2018). Rolex’s 2024 mid-year USA price hike was abnormal, but it came on the heels of an 80% increase in the price of gold over a five-year period.

Do New Prices Affect the Used Rolex Market?

Theoretically, yes, those who become priced out of new models increasingly seek used models and thus increase the prices of those as well. And in practice, that is in fact what we generally see. But it’s worth noting that the delta between new and vintage Rolex watches seems to be increasing–in favor of new Rolexes. Most buyers prefer the “weight” and clasps of the newer bracelets.

While people often think “expensive” when they hear “vintage Rolex,” in most cases it will cost you much more to buy a modern equivalent. You can even find a beautiful example of a vintage Rolex Pepsi GMT with a faded fuchsia bezel insert for less than the market price of a new GMT-Master II. It’s really only the extremely desirable and rare vintage Rolexes that see huge prices. Hopefully there won’t be another Rolex price increase anytime soon, but we’ll see!

More on Rolex:
Rolex and Nickel Allergies: What’s the Deal?
What is the Rolex Batman?
Best Rolex Explorer II Alternatives
France Fines Rolex €91,600,000 for Prohibiting Online Sales
Rolex Myths, Lies, and Almost-Firsts
The Rare and Cheerful Rolex Daytona Beach Collection

Originally published April 2024; updated May 30, 2024.

Richard Mille watches are famously expensive and exceedingly exclusive; they’ve become recognizable markers of success. While they are out of reach for the vast majority of watch enthusiasts, Richard Mille watches have become a darling item among the ultra-wealthy, particularly elite athletes. Athletes likely find RM watches appealing thanks in part to the fact that many of these timepieces were designed to be worn during gameplay and not just to throw on during a trophy-holding photo op. For example, Richard Mille Rafael Nadal watches were developed, constructed, tested, and produced to withstand the tremendous shocks endured while on the wrist of one of the greatest tennis players of all time. Richard Mille and Rafa’s partnership began in 2010 and since then, several Richard Mille Nadal watches have come out of the famed Swiss watch factory. This is the first installment of what will be a continuing series centered around understanding important Richard Mille watches, past and present. Keep reading for a comprehensive guide to Richard Mille Rafael Nadal watches.

The First Richard Mille Rafael Nadal Watch: RM 027 Tourbillon (2010)

According to the brand, Richard Mille (the man) approached Rafael Nadal as early as 2008 to discuss making a watch in the tennis champ’s honor. However, Nadal wasn’t initially convinced, refusing to believe he could wear a watch while playing tennis. Yet, two years later, the RM 027 Tourbillon “Rafael Nadal” made its debut, the first of a long line of Richard Mille Rafael Nadal watches.

The RM 027 watch was designed to be worn on the tennis court despite housing a tourbillon— traditionally a very delicate complication. Richard Mille ensured that its first Rafael Nadal watch was not only capable of withstanding plenty of shocks but also ultralight and comfortable to keep on the wrist during an intense match.

Limited to only 50 pieces, the RM 027 watch sports a tonneau-shaped case fashioned from a black carbon composite that’s both tough and light. The baseplate of the manual-winding tourbillon movement is crafted from titanium and a lithium-based alloy for added strength and lightness.

When Richard Mille introduced the RM 027 Tourbillon “Rafael Nadal” in 2010, it was the lightest watch ever produced at that time, weighing a mere 20g including the rubber strap. Its retail price in 2010 was CHF 510,000 (around $500,000). Although it’s difficult to estimate what the RM 027 is worth in the market in 2024 since it rarely comes up for sale, by some estimates it’s valued at well over $1.2 million.

After Rafa won the French Open in 2012, his RM 027 was stolen from his Parisian hotel room. Thankfully it was quickly recovered after which, according to a CNBC report, the tennis phenom texted Richard Mille “I’m so happy, I’m so relieved!”

RM 027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 027 Tourbillon “Rafael Nadal”
Case	Black carbon composite 39.7 x 48mm 11.8mm thick
Functions	Hour, minutes, tourbillon
Movement	Caliber RM027 Manual-winding 48-hour power reserve 21,600 beats per hour
2010 Retail Price	CHF 510,000 USD 500,000
Limited Edition	50 pieces

RM 035 Rafael Nadal (2011)

Launched in 2011, the RM 035 is a non-tourbillion Richard Mille Rafael Nadal watch. The RM 35 family of Richard Mille Rafael Nadal watches are often referred to as “Baby Nadal” models. This was the first RM watch with a Chronofiable® certification, which means it ensured a test of accelerated aging —the equivalent of 6 months of wear and tear in just 21 days.

The black tonneau-shaped case is made from alumagnesium, an alloy that combines aluminum, magnesium, and copper resulting in a light yet strong material that’s resistant to pressure and high temperatures.

When it was introduced in 2011, the RM 035 Rafael Nadal retailed for $85,000. In 2024, it’s worth more than $200,000 on the secondary market.

RM 035 Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 035 “Rafael Nadal”
Case	Alumagnesium 39.7 x 48mm
Functions	Hour, minutes, seconds
Movement	Caliber RMUL1 Manual-winding Skeletonized
2011 Retail Price	$85,000

RM 27-01 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal (2013)

Three years after the original Richard Mille Rafael Nadal tourbillon watch launched, another one joined the catalog: the RM 27-01, which was even lighter than the first. Weighing a paltry 18.83 grams including the Velcro strap, the RM 27-01 look the trophy for the lightest watch in the world when it was released in 2013.

To shed the weight, Richard Mille opted for a carbon composite with a high concentration of carbon nanotubes to make the case, resulting in a mottled anthracite color. The tonneau case is also slightly smaller than the previous version and the crystal is polycarbonate.

An intriguing component of the RM 27-01’s movement, which comprises titanium and aluminum-lithium components, is that the baseplate is attached to the case via four braided steel cables that measure a minuscule 0.35 mm in diameter. This construction method adds flexibility, strength, and lightness. According to Richard Mille, the RM 27-01 Tourbillon watch can withstand accelerations of over 5,000 g.

Also limited to 50 examples, the retail price of the RM 27-01 in 2013 was $690,000. In 2022, Christie’s auction house sold one for CHF 1,254,000 (about $1.3 million).

RM 27-01 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 27-01 Tourbillon “Rafael Nadal”
Case	Anthracite carbon composite injected with carbon nanotubes 38.90 x 45.98mm
Functions	Hour, minutes, tourbillon
Movement	Caliber RM27-01 Manual-winding ~ 45 hours power reserve
2013 Retail Price	USD $690,000
Limited Edition	50 pieces

Further Reading:
Why Are Richard Mille Watches So Expensive?
Richard Mille Prices: Historical and Current From Actual Sales Numbers
Rafael Nadal’s $525k Richard Mille RM027 Watch Stolen Again!
How to Avoid Buying a Fake Richard Mille Watch

RM 35-01 Rafael Nadal (2014)

Richard Mille introduced the RM 35-01 in 2014 as the second non-tourbillon “Baby Nadal” watch, featuring (like the previous version) a skeletonized manual-winding movement with hours, minutes, and seconds but upgraded to the Caliber RMUL3.

The innovation here is found in the case, crafted from Carbon TPT (released by the brand the previous year) where TPT stands for Thin Ply Technology, developed with the company North Thin Ply Technology (a.k.a NTPT).

I know, so many abbreviations, but stay with me here. Carbon TPT is essentially stacked ultra-thin (30 microns thick) layers of carbon fiber that are impregnated with resin (via a process called “pre-preg”) and then cured under intense heat and pressure. The result is a material that not only provides an ideal strength-to-density ratio but also a super cool Damascene steel-like pattern that’s unique across all the watches.

The 2014 retail price of the RM 35-01 Rafael Nadal watch was $130,000. In 2024, prices for the RM 35-01 generally range from $250,000 to $350,000 on the secondary market.

RM 35-01 Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 35-01 “Rafael Nadal”
Case	Black Carbon TPT 42 x 50mm 14mm thick
Functions	Hour, minutes, seconds
Movement	Caliber RMUL3 Manual-winding Skeletonized 55 hours power reserve
2014 Retail Price	$130,000

RM 27-02 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal (2015)

In 2015, the third Richard Mille Nadal tourbillon burst onto the watch landscape in the form of the RM 27-02. Again limited to only 50 pieces worldwide, the RM 27-02 tourbillion showcased the company’s commitment to high-tech materials to achieve its watchmaking goals.

For instance, the skeletonized baseplate is made from Carbon TPT, the innovative carbon fiber and resin material discussed above. Furthermore, inspired by racing car chassis, the caseback and baseplate were fused into one piece (dubbed as a “unibody” by the brand), thereby eliminating the need for added materials to attach them. The manual-winding movement, which has a power reserve of 70 hours, is home to great-looking sculptural titanium bridges (including the one securing the one-minute tourbillon), visible from the dial, of course.

The case of the RM 27-02 also uses a unique alloy—Quartz TPT, a material composed of hundreds of layers of quartz and carbon fibers, resulting in the material’s unique white embellished with black stripes. The lighter shade of the Quartz TPT bezel and caseback contrast strikingly with the black Carbon TPT caseback and movement baseplate.

The retail price of the RM 27-02 Tourbillion Rafael Nadal was $775,000 in 2015. In 2024, the watch is worth around $2 million.

RM 27-02 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 27-02 Tourbillon “Rafael Nadal”
Case	Quartz TPT (Carbon TPT caseband and bezel) 39.70 x 47.77mm 12.25mm thick
Functions	Hour, minutes, tourbillon
Movement	Caliber RM27-02 Manual-winding Skeletonized 70 hours power reserve
2015 Retail Price	$775,000

The First Automatic Richard Mille Rafael Nadal Watch: RM 35-02 (2016)

2016 saw the release of the first automatic Richard Mille Rafael Nadal watch, called the RM 35-02. According to the company, clients had been requesting a self-winding version of the Baby Nadal watch, so Richard Mille delivered.

The automatic Caliber RMAL1 that powers the watch includes a variable-geometry rotor, which essentially means that the rotor’s winding can be adjusted according to the wearer’s activity level. Highly active wearers can have the watch wind at a slower pace while less active wearers can adjust to have the watch wind faster. Another first for this version of a Richard Mille Rafael watch is that it’s furnished with a sapphire caseback for a view of that rotor.

The RM 35-02 was made available with either a black Carbon TPT case or a vivid red Quartz TPT case with white highlights. The original retail price of the RM 35-02 in 2016 was $145,000. In 2024, expect to pay anywhere from $270,000 to $400,000 for a pre-owned version.

RM 35-02 Automatic Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 35-02 Automatic “Rafael Nadal”
Case	Black Carbon TPT or White Quartz TPT 44.5 x 49.94mm 13.15mm thick
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds
Movement	Caliber RMAL1 Automatic winding Skeletonized 55 hours power reserve
2016 Retail Price	$145,000

RM 27-03 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal (2017)

In 2017, Richard Mille took the colors of Rafael Nadal’s Spanish flag and turned it into another tourbillon watch dedicated to the tennis legend. The RM 27-03 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, limited to 50 pieces, features a bright red and yellow Quartz TPT case.

Eye-popping colorway aside, the true innovation of the RM 27-03 tourbillon watch is that it was built to withstand shocks of up to 10,000g, a first for the watch world. A stand-out feature of the movement are the highly stylized bridges, designed to evoke a forward-facing head of a bull — an animal closely associated with Spain.

The RM 27-03 retailed for $725,000 in 2017; in 2024, it’s worth north of $1.3 million.

RM 27-03 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 27-03 Tourbillon “Rafael Nadal”
Case	Red and Yellow Quartz TPT 40.3 x 47.77mm 12.75mm thick
Functions	Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Movement	RM27-03 Manual-winding Skeletonized 70 hours power reserve
2017 Retail Price	$725,000

10th Anniversary Richard Mille Rafael Nadal Watch: RM 27-04 (2020)

To mark the 10th anniversary of the partnership, a new Richard Mille Rafael Nadal tourbillon was launched in 2020: the RM 27-04.  Weighing in at just 30 grams including the strap, this fifth-gen Rafa tourbillon has a case made of “TitaCarb,” a polyamide that’s 38.5% carbon fiber for substantial tensile strength (3,700 kg/cm²).

Inside the case is a tennis-inspired movement — the Caliber RM27-04, visible on both sides thanks to the pair of sapphire crystals. A single woven steel cable, which is weaved like a tennis racket and secured by two turnbuckles, supports the entire suspended movement. Much like a racket, the angles created by the lattice pattern lessen the impact of shocks on the movement. As such, the RM 27-04 tourbillon watch can withstand accelerations of over 12,000g, a new Richard Mille record.

Like all Richard Mille Rafael Nadal tourbillon watches, the RM 27-04 is limited to 50 pieces. Upon release, it had a retail price of $1,050,000 and it’s still part of the current catalog. In 2024, it’s easily worth more than double that on the secondary market.

RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal
Case	TitaCarb 38.4 x 47.25mm 11.4mm thick
Functions	Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Movement	Caliber RM27-04 Manual-winding Skeletonized ~ 38 hours power reserve
2020 Retail Price	$1,050,000

RM 35-03 Automatic Winding Rafael Nadal (2021)

The newest Baby Nadal watch to join the lineup is the RM 35-03, presented in 2021 and as of 2024, still a part of the current Richard Mille collection. The big news of the RM 35-03 is that it’s equipped with a new winding mechanism dubbed the “butterfly rotor,” a patented invention that allows the wearer to control the watch’s winding. A pusher at 7 o’clock turns the “Sport Mode” on or off (there’s an indicator at 6 o’clock on the dial), which then transforms the rotor from a traditional half-moon shape into two quarters that split apart resembling the wings of a butterfly.

The thinking behind this is that less activity requires more efficient winding to keep the watch running whereas the movement can benefit from canceling its winding power (i.e. Sport Mode on) during high-activity times to prevent over-winding. There’s another pusher at the 2 o’clock position where the wearer can flip through winding, neutral, or hand-setting functions, accompanied by a indicator also at 2 o’clock.

In 2021, Richard Mille offered the RM 35-03 in two versions: one in white Quartz TPT with black Carbon TPT casebands and the other in blue and white Quartz TPT. In 2023, a third version joined the RM 35-03 family in black Carbon TPT.

The RM 35-03 retails for $238,000 but prices on the secondary market in 2024 start at around $450,000 and go up from there.

RM 35-03 Automatic Winding Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 35-03 Automatic Winding Rafael Nadal
Case	White Quartz TPT and Black Carbon TPT Blue and White Quartz TPT Black Carbon TPT 43.15mm x 49.95mm 13.15mm thick
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, function selector, Sport Mode adjustable butterfly rotor
Movement	Caliber RMAL2 Automatic winding 55-hour power reserve 28,800 beats per hour
2023 Retail Price	$238,000

RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal (2024)

In 2024, Richard Mille introduced the double-record-breaking RM 27-05 Rafa Nadal watch, weighing a mere 11.5 grams (excluding the strap) and able to withstand up to 14,000 g-forces. These impressive specs mean that RM 27-05 is the lightest and most resistant manual-winding tourbillon watch on the planet. Although Rafa got booted out of the first round at the 2024 French Open — the major tennis tournament that the Spanaird has dominated for so long — we did spot him wearing the RM 27-05 flying tourbillon on his wrist during the match.

Taking over 4,000 hours of design work to develop, the RM 27-05 watch sports a case fashioned from a new composite material called Carbon TPT B.4, which is denser, stiffer, and stronger than the original Carbon TPT.

The flying tourbillon is positioned at 5 o’clock on the skeletonized dial, nestled within the 55-hour-power-reserve manual-winding movement with a baseplate and bridges made of microblasted and PVD-treated grade 5 titanium. Limited to 80 pieces. the Rafa Nadal RM 27-05 watch will retail for $1,150,000.

RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Specs

Model	RM 27-05 Manual Winding Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal
Case	Carbon TPT B.4 37.25mm x 47.25mm 7.20mm thick
Functions	Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon
Movement	RM27-05 Manual winding 55-hour power reserve 28,800 beats per hour
2023 Retail Price	$1,150,000

The Richard Mille Rafael Nadal Watch Collection

There you have it, a detailed look at the entire Richard Mille Rafel Nadal watch collection since its inception in 2010.

There are ten references in total, six of them tourbillions and the remaining four are non-tourbillion “Baby Nadal” variants. There are also some limited edition versions of these references that we didn’t cover such as the RM 035 “Black Toro,” RM 035 “Gold Toro,” and RM 035 Rafael Nadal Americas Limited Edition.

Stay tuned where we’ll explore other Richard Mille watch families such as the Bubba Watson, Felipe Massa, and Le Mans, and references such as the RM 11s, RM 67s, RM 55s and so much more.

In 2022, MB&F unveiled its first chronograph watch, dubbed the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, boasting one movement with two chronograph complications. The independent watchmaker has taken that revolutionary watch and updated it to give us the MB&F LM Sequential Flyback, which as the name suggests, includes flyback functionality on the twin chronographs. Let’s dig into the details because like almost all MB&F watches, there’s a lot to take in here.

The Legacy Machine’s Duo of Chronographs Now Fly Back

As you may already know, chronographs come in a variety of styles one being the flyback chronograph whereby the moving chronograph hand can be sent back to the zero position to continue timing without having to stop it first. Essentially, the flyback mechanism stops, resets, and restarts the chronograph hand via a single press of one pusher rather than having to divvy up the three separate operations across two pushers. In other words, the chronograph hand “flies back” to its position. It’s quicker for the wearer to use (originally conceived for pilots in high-speed and high-stress situations) but more complicated for the watchmaker to build.

The original MB&F LM Sequential EVO, which took home the highly coveted Aiguille d’Or at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, includes two independently operated chronographs inside one watch, each with its own large 60-second counter and a smaller 30-minute counter. Furthermore, the watch also includes a “Twinverter” switch to allow wearers to cycle through various timing modes such as independent timing, split-second, sequential (lap timer), and a never-before-seen cumulative “chess” mode.

The newer MB&F LM Sequential Flyback includes all of the above with the added benefit of flyback functionalities —on both chronographs.

Further Reading:
What is a Chronograph Watch?

MB&F LM Sequential Flyback Design

Whereas the earlier model was more sporty in design, featuring the brand’s EVO case in zirconium and fitted with dial plates in either orange or black, the newer flyback LM Sequential leans into MB&F’s more classic styling (well, as “classic” as the wild watchmaking brand gets.)

The MB&F LM Sequential Flyback features a 44mm platinum case that soars 18.2mm tall, complete with a dramatically domed sapphire crystal for an expansive view of the incredible dial. The dial is home to a sky-blue plate, as well as white lacquer subdials — including the tilted hour and minutes display at 6 o’clock.

The left chronograph has its seconds displayed at 9 o’clock and minutes at 11 o’clock on the dial while the start/stop pusher is placed at 10 o’clock and the reset/flyback pusher is located at 8 o’clock. Conversely, the right chronograph has its seconds displayed at 3 o’clock and minutes at 1 o’clock while the start/stop pusher is at 2 o’clock and the reset/flyback pusher is at 4 o’clock.

There’s also an additional pusher at 9 o’clock for the Twinverter mechanism and the power reserve indicator is positioned on the caseback side of the movement.

The Movement

The LM Sequential Flyback movement was developed by Stephen McDonnell, the same man behind the movement powering the original LM Sequential EVO watch and many other groundbreaking MB&F watches.

The fully integrated dual chronograph flyback system movement (with Twinverter switch for multiple timing modes) is manual-winding, complete with two mainspring barrels for 72 hours of power reserve. It comprises 619 components and 63 jewels, and, as expected from MB&F, is incredibly hand-finished and decorated. Thankfully, the movement can be admired from both the dial and caseback side.

LM Sequential Flyback Watch Specs

Model	Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback
Reference	10.PL.BU
Case	Platinum 44mm diameter 18.2mm thick Chronograph pushes at 2, 4, 8, and 10 o’clock Twinverter pusher at 9 o’clock:
Dial	Sky-blue CVD White lacquer subdials Chronograph seconds displayed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock Chronograph minutes displayed at 1 o’clock and 11 o’clock Hour and minutes display at 6 o’clock
Functions	Two flyback chronographs (left and right) Twinverter binary switch for different timing modes: independent timing, split-second, cumulative, and lap-timer Hours and minutes
Movement	Manual-winding Double mainsprings 619 components, 63 jewels 72 hour power reserve Hand-finished
Water-resistance	30 meters
Strap	Leather
Limited	33 pieces
2024 Retail Price (MSRP)	218,000

MB&F Is Flying High

This may not look like your typical pilot’s watch, however, MB&F is indeed positioning it as its first aviation watch. Then again, nothing MB&F does is typical and that is precisely why we’re big fans of this innovative independent watchmaker here at Luxury Bazaar.

Limited to only 33 pieces, the platinum LM Sequential Flyback ref. 10.PL.BU will retail for $218,000.

More About MB&F Watches
MB&F Introduces the Limited LMX Paris Edition Watch
H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium
MB&F HM11 Architect Watch
MB&F HM9 “Flow” Sapphire Vision Watches

The Rolex 16710 has been called their most versatile sports model, and it’s hard to argue otherwise. It was Rolex’s second GMT-Master II model, offered with three bezel insert options–red and blue (“Pepsi”), red and black (“Coke”), and all-black. With both the Jubilee and Oyster bracelet as choices, that makes six distinct ways to “wear” your Rolex 16710. In this article we’ll give you all of the 16710’s specs and a timeline of variations, as well as everything you need to know about the bracelets available.

Rolex 16710 Specs

While the Rolex Pepsi is the most popular colorway for the 16710, it only commands a small premium on the pre-owned watch market over the Rolex Coke or the all-black version. The 16710 was actually the last Coke GMT Rolex ever made, unless you count the off-catalog Icy Coke versions. Some 16710 bezel inserts have faded significantly at this point, while others look brand new. Similarly, some early 16710’s have significant patina on the hands and hour markers, giving a decidedly “vintage” look, while more recent ones still look quite modern. So, there are a wide variety of aesthetic options for any potential Rolex 16710 shopper. Here’s a rundown of the basic specs:

Model	GMT-Master II
Reference	16710 (Lugholes, 1989-2002) 16710T (No lugholes, 2003-2007)
Case Material	Stainless steel
Case Size	Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 12mm Lug-to-lug: 47mm
Water Resistance	100m
Movement	Rolex 3185 or 3186 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Functions	Hours, minutes, second, date, GMT
Power Reserve	50 hours
Bracelet/Strap	Stainless steel Oyster or Jubilee bracelet
Market Value (Apr. 2024)	~$10,000-$14,000

Rolex 16710 Timeline

It’s worth noting that Rolex doesn’t do “model years,” and the years we’re about to show you aren’t cut-and-dried timeframes; something listed as “2001” could’ve conceivably been seen in 2000 etc. But this slideshow should give you a good idea of the progression of the 16710:

1989	The GMT-Master II ref. 16710 replaces the “Fat Lady” 16760. The 3185 movement replaces the outgoing 3085, and the case height and lugs both get slightly slimmer.
1999	Tritium lume is gone in favor of non-radioactive SuperLuminova. “Swiss T < 25” is replaced by only “Swiss.”
2000	All Rolex sports models get solid endlinks (“SEL”).
2001	The Swiss-only dials are gone; they now say “Swiss Made.”
2003	No more lugholes! The new lughole-free reference is known as 16710T.
2007	16710 is discontinued, replaced by the 116710.

Rolex 16710 Bracelets

As mentioned, the Rolex 16710 was offered on both Jubilee and Oyster bracelets. For Oyster bracelets, the 78360 (with no Oysterlock clasp) is the most common model. But some can be seen with the 78390, which added the Submariner-like flip-down clasp. The 78390A, which has solid endlinks unlike the 78390 it replaced in 2000, was often used as a service replacement bracelet. Before the 79390A came out, the 93150 Oyster bracelet from the Submariner was actually a legitimate factory option for the 16710–diver’s extension and all–but it wasn’t a popular choice.

For the Jubilee, a 20mm 62510H is always the correct bracelet. But Jubilee bracelets that originally came on a Rolex 16710 will have a “50” stamped on the back of the top link, and the spring bar retainers are slightly larger than those for a Datejust:

The only difference between a 62510H “50” and a standard 62510H is the center spring bar retainers, which on the 50 are 2 tenths of a millimeter larger. Yes, 0.2 of a millimeter. There are no other differences at all.

Rolex Forums user inadeje

If you’re putting a Jubilee bracelet on a 16710T (no lugholes), make sure you use 502T endlinks, because 502B’s have no cutouts on the back (which you need when you can’t poke the springbars in through the hole). And it’s worth noting that the Super Jubilee (which has a hidden clasp and came on 36mm Datejusts from about 2004-2018) never came on a Rolex 16710, but as long as you use 1.8mm springbars, 63600 and 63200 bracelets will fit just fine.

How to Tell SEL vs. HEL?

If it looks like the Oyster bracelet goes into the endlink, those are hollow endlinks (HEL). With solid endlinks, the center link goes right up to the lip of the bezel. And assuming the watch has the correct endlinks, if you see gaps on the back of the endlink to accommodate a springbar tool, it definitely has SEL (even though from 2000-2001 it didn’t really need that gap as it still had lugholes).

HEL bracelets are perfectly fine, and some people like their lightweight vintage charm, but most collectors tend to gravitate towards the streamlined look and more modern feel of SEL. Although Oyster bracelets for the Rolex 16710 got solid endlinks around 2000, the Jubilee 62510H remained unchanged.

Dials

Rolex 16710 dials didn’t have too much variation over the years, aside from the switch from tritium to Super-Luminova in the late 1990’s as mentioned in the timeline above.

16710 Swiss-Only Dial

Rolex 16710 models from about 1999-2000 just say “Swiss” at the bottom of the dial. These were replaced by “Swiss Made” dials after about two years. One popular narrative is that Swiss-only dials have LumiNova, while Swiss Made ones have SuperLuminova. Personally I believe it’s likely that they are all SuperLumiNova–which is, mind you, just a Swiss brand of LumiNova paint (there’s nothing objectively “super” about it anyway).

16710 “Error Dial”?

Some Rolex 16710 dials have no serifs on the “II” in “GMT-Master II,” so it looks like two straight lines. Some sellers claim this is an “error dial” but it’s really just a minor typeface variation. Multiple batches of dials with the straight-II have been released, and they have even been given as service replacement dials. They are fairly uncommon, sure, but I wouldn’t recommend paying a premium for it.

Rolex 16710 vs. Other Rolex GMT’s

Now let’s go through the key differences between the Rolex 16710 and some other GMT-Master II (and GMT-Master) models.

16710 vs. 16760

The Rolex 16710 is very similar to the first GMT-Master II model, the 16760 “Fat Lady” that it replaced in 1989. The 16710 simply got an incrementally upgraded movement (3185 instead of 3085), as well as slightly slimmer lugs, crown guard, and minute hand. The 16760 was only available with a Coke insert, though.

16710 vs. 16700

The 16700 was made alongside the 16710 until the late 1990’s. It’s almost the same watch, except it’s a regular GMT-Master instead of a GMT-Master II. So, the 16700 doesn’t have an independent 24-hour hand; you use the bezel to track a second time zone and that’s that. But, unlike GMT-Master II models, the 16700 has a quickset date which is nice. Note that Coke inserts are only available on GMT-Master II models, so the 16700 was only offered with all-black or Pepsi inserts.

Rolex 16710 vs. 116710

Back in 2007, much hubbub was made about the 16710’s replacement, ref. 116710, having a ceramic bezel insert. But the feel of the bezel assembly itself changed significantly, too. Modern GMT bezels glide satisfyingly upon ball bearings, while older ones are a simpler push-down-and-turn situation. The 116710 also has relatively prominent lugs, so its case is sometimes called a “maxi case.”

The 116710 was only available with an all-black bezel at first, presumably while Rolex figured out how to engineer multicolor ceramic inserts to a satisfactory standard. Later the black-and-blue BLNR colorway was added. Note that Rolex Service Centers won’t sell you a different ceramic bezel color. If you want to switch colors around, stick to a 16710. Aside from that, the main difference most people notice between six-digit models and “neo-vintage” Rolex sports watches is the clasp. Newer Rolex bracelets do “feel” heavier, and the Easylink clasp is definitely awesome.

Rolex 16710 vs. 126710

The current generation of GMT-Master II, ref. 126710, debuted in 2018 with much fanfare. A steel Pepsi GMT was on the menu once again. Although the 126710 has a newer generation of movement (3285), the 3185 movement (and later 3186) powering the 16710 is absolutely rock solid.

3185 vs. 3186 Movement

The Rolex 16710 got a 3186 movement towards the very end of its run, replacing the outgoing 3185. The 3186 has a Parachrom hairspring, and thus greater magnetic resistance, but there’s really nothing wrong with the old Nivarox hairsprings. If you have a Rolex 16710 from 2006-2007 and you’re not sure which movement it has, try setting the time and paying attention to the 24-hour hand–on the 3185, it “wiggles” a bit, while that wiggle is pretty much gone on the 3186.

It’s not something worth hugely stressing about, though–collectors initially predicted that 3186-powered Rolex 16710 and 16570 models might eventually skyrocket in price due to their rarity, but that hasn’t really happened. 3186’s do seem to command a small premium, but condition is king when it comes to vintage (and neo-vintage) Rolex. If you’re looking for a 16710, on Oyster or Jubilee, with lugholes or not, regardless of bezel–it’s an excellent choice for a one-watch collection or as part of a large one.

More on Rolex:
Rolex Oysterflex: A Collector’s Guide
Platinum Rolex Watch Prices: A Collector’s Guide
Rolex Sales at All-Time High in 2023 as Tudor Sales Decline: Report
Best Rolex Oyster Perpetual Alternatives
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Cartier timepieces have long been one of the most popular luxury watches for women. Generally speaking, Cartier has employed the clever strategy of making most of its watches available in various sizes so that men and women can pick which model fits them best. As a result, plenty of Cartier watch designs are considered unisex. What’s more, the majority of its watch designs— like so many products designed in France — include a mix of masculine and feminine details, which in turn appeals to a broader audience. However, Cartier has also dedicated a section of its watch catalog to pieces explicitly designed for a female audience, which has proven to be a lucrative strategy for the luxury powerhouse. From Tank and Panthere to Ballon Bleu and Pasha, here’s a comprehensive guide to Cartier women’s watch models.

Cartier Tank Watches For Women

Designed in 1917 after the tanks of World War I, there is perhaps no Cartier watch more famous than the Tank. Over the last century, Cartier has expanded the Tank watch collection with a vast assortment of iterations but always retaining the model’s fundamental blueprint. The defining feature of a Cartier Tank is a rectangular case with thick straight sides (which Cartier calls brancards, French for “stretchers”) that extend into the watch’s lugs. Other common details are part of Cartier’s overall design language, which include Roman numerals, rail-road minute tracks, blue sword-shaped hands, and a blue cabochon stone set into the winding crown.

As mentioned, there are plenty of Tank variations, each offering a distinct interpretation of the watch. For instance, there are the elongated Tank Cintree and Americaine, the minimalist Tank Solo and Tank Must, the classic Tank Louis Cartier, the beefy Tank Anglaise and Tank MC, and others. However, for women, the most famous is the Tank Française, introduced in the mid-1990s and still going strong today with a collection-wide refresh in 2023.

The Tank Française, characterized by square dials and chain-link bracelets, is available in steel, gold (yellow, rose, and white), and two-tone steel and gold. Of course, diamonds are always an option.

Cartier Panthere Watch For Women

Named after the company’s favorite feline, the Cartier Panthère watch was introduced in the mid-1980s. Its defining characteristic is its supple brick-link bracelet, mimicking the graceful movement of the panther. Other signature design details of the Cartier Panthere watch are square cases, dials, and bezel, with the latter punctuated with exposed screws. It’s similar in design to the Santos (which we’ll get to in a bit) but it’s that jewelry-like bracelet that makes all the difference.

Aside from the principal five-link configuration, Cartier does offer variations of the Panthère watch bracelet including double-wrapped versions and wide cuffs.

Cartier Tank vs. Panthere

Not only are the Tank and Panthere some of the most popular Cartier women’s watches in the market but also they can look quite similar. As such, let’s do a brief rundown on their similarities and differences.

While the Tank and Panthere have quadrilateral cases, upon further inspection we see that the former is more angular while the latter has rounder edges. The Tank can come in various proportions (long, short, arched, etc) while the Panthere’s case silhouette remains the same across iterations (except for size, of course.) The Panthere’s dials and bezels also have rounded corners, which adds a more feminine touch to the style of the watch. Furthermore, the Panthere’s case includes crown guards while the Tank’s winding crown does not include protective shoulders.

The biggest difference between the two models is the bracelet; as previously covered, Panthere watches are fitted with brick-link bracelets. On the other hand, Tank watches can be paired with leather straps or bracelets, and the bracelets typically have a three-link configuration with wide center links.

In short, the Panthere watch is dressier and more ornate while the Tank timepiece is generally more casual and classic.

Cartier Ballon Bleu Watches For Women

Compared to other Cartier models, the Ballon Bleu is a relatively new design, unveiled in the mid-2000s. The watch features a pebble-like case, complete with a convex sapphire crystal that emphasizes the bulbous shape. The watch takes its name from the blue stone-set winding crown that looks like it’s floating inside the edge of the case.

Similar to other Cartier watches for women, the Ballon Bleu is available in a slew of materials, sizes, dial colors, and movement types. Depending on the size, some versions include a date window while others don’t. Furthermore, while metal bracelets are most common, Cartier does offer some Ballon Bleu models with leather straps.

Cartier Pasha Watches For Women

Unbeknownst to some, the Cartier Pasha was designed by Gerald Genta, the same man behind icons such as the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Launched in the 1980s but according to the brand, inspired by a bespoke swim-ready watch made for the Pasha of Marrakesh in the 1930s, the Pasha watch is sporty by Cartier standards but still quite dressy compared to the other sports watches thanks in part to Vendome-style lugs and cabochon-stone-set crowns.

A few of the defining attributes of the Pasha include round cases, square minute tracks and Arabic numerals on the round dial, and a cap protecting the crown attached to the case via a small chain. Some of the most striking versions of the Pasha are those with removable grilles, inspired by the original piece from the 1930s. The modern Pasha collection offers

Cartier Santos Watches for Women

The Cartier Santos is one of the brand’s most historically important pieces, initially designed in 1904 for aviator Alberto-Santos Dumont to be able to tell the time while keeping his hands on the steering instruments during his pioneering flights (much more practical than a pocket watch). It was then redesigned in the late 1970s for the glitzy era and it remains a mainstay of Cartier’s catalog, featuring a rounded square case, rounded square bezel with exposed screws, and more often than not, metal bracelets also punctuated with metal screws.

Although the Santos is marketed more toward men in today’s market, generally positioned as Cartier’s GADA watch, there are indeed a few Santos models — both vintage and modern — that are designed specifically for ladies. For instance, there are smaller versions of both the sportier Santos de Cartier watches with metal bracelets and the dressier Santos-Dumont watches paired with leather straps.

Cartier Ronde and Rotonde Watches For Women

The Ronde and Rotonde watches are Cartier’s classically round cases. However, they differ in that the Ronde collection usually offers quite simple models whereas the Rotonde typically features complications or interesting watchmaking traditions.

For instance, the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour features a distinct hour and minute display that appears as if they’re floating in mid-air and operating without a movement. Cartier has been making mystery clocks and watches for well over a century; the secret is that the hands are attached to two crystal disks and the hidden movement moves the disks, which in turn move the hands. In true Cartier fashion, there are plenty of high-jewelry versions of the Rotonde availble, decked out in diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and other precious gems.

Other Cartier Watches for Women

In addition to the above best-known Cartier watches for women, the brand has made plenty of other ladies’ timepieces over the decades, which we’ll briefly cover here.

Cartier Tortue

Introduced in 1912 and named after the French word for turtle, the Cartier Tortue’s defining feature is its turtle shell-shaped case.

Cartier Baignoire

Also designed in 1912, the Baignoire is named after the French word for bathtub given its oval-shaped case.

Cartier Crash

For a long time, it was believed that the Crash watch’s amorphic design was the result of a fiery car crash that melted a client’s Cartier watch. That was the story Cartier told. However, according to Francesca Cartier Brickell, it was actually her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier who designed the watch in 1967. The Cartier Crash has become one of the most in-demand watches in today’s market —for men and women.

High Jewelry Watches

Given Cartier’s history as one of the world’s greatest jewelers, it should come as no surprise that the Maison makes some incredible jewelry watches. From diamond-encrusted shaped watches to bejeweled animal motifs to sparkling classic numbers, Cartier’s catalog is replete with women’s high jewelry watches.

Cartier Privé & CPCP

Cartier launched an ultra-exclusive collection dubbed the Cartier Privé Collection Paris, also known as CPCP, in 1998. This collection housed re-issues of distinctive pieces from Cartier’s archives, made in limited runs. The modern version of the CPCP line is simply called Cartier Privé and like its predecessor, it’s home to historically important pieces geared towards serious Cartier collections.

Cartier’s Women’s Watches

As illustrated by the pieces outlined here, it’s clear that Cartier is committed to making beautiful watches for women —which is why the company has been a leader in this field for decades. Other brands could learn a thing or two from Cartier by prioritizing their women’s watch lineup with interesting pieces rather than just “shrinking and pinking” already-existing men’s watches. They may find success in an underserved market if they actually put in the type of effort Cartier does.

More about Cartier Watches
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When Rolex announced their intended acquisition of legendary international retail chain Bucherer in 2023, the watch industry was abuzz with speculation about how it would affect the world of luxury watch retailing. What has been talked about much less, however, is the fact that this acquisition also includes a world-class movement maker capable of producing minute repeaters, tourbillons and perpetual calendars. The in-house movement manufacturer for the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand was once a renowned standalone third-party maker of high complications known as Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) located in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland. And now, if the Swiss regulators approve Rolex’s Bucherer acquisition, they will belong to Rolex.

Who is Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées?

In 1989, Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées was founded by three all-stars of today’s luxury watch world–François-Paul Journe (of F.P. Journe), Vianney Halter, and Denis Flageollet (of De Bethune). THA supplied movements to high-end Swiss brands, and many regarded them as one of the few movement-for-hire firms remotely on par with Renaud et Papi. The top of the luxury watch industry is a small world.

The Bucherer Acquisition

Letting larger brands take the “glory” of your finest works often grows tiresome for elite watchmakers, so it’s not surprising that all three founders were long gone by the time Bucherer bought THA in 2007. Bucherer changed the name to “Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA” and decided to keep all their movements for its own Carl F. Bucherer brand from then on. Their first important horological innovation under that name came the very next year. News of Rolex’s Bucherer acquisition came in 2023. Presumably, though, the integration of the companies will take years–if the deal is approved by Switzerland at all, that is.

Most Notable Complications

These are the most notable horological feats that Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA is known for:

• Peripheral Rotor – Although Carl F. Bucherer Technologies didn’t invent peripheral rotors, they were the first to serially produce them in 2008, and they’re leaders in that area. Peripheral winding rotors, unlike typical automatic winding rotors, are like rings around the movement. This allows for a better view of the movement (assuming the watch has an exhibition caseback) and a slimmer case height.
• Floating Tourbillon – Although lots of brands make flying tourbillons, CFB’s “floating tourbillon” is supported peripherally by three ceramic ball bearings (the same concept behind their peripheral rotors) rather than being cantilevered on one side. This feature debuted in 2018.
• Minute Repeater – The minute repeater is a classic complication, but it’s one of the most difficult to make. Carl F. Bucherer Technologies is on a short list of houses that actually make their own minute repeater movements. A “Triple Peripheral” has a floating tourbillon, peripheral rotor and peripherally mounted minute repeater regulator.
• Perpetual Calendar – CFB used to add Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar modules to ETA base movements, but since 2023 they’ve been making their own manufacture perpetual calendars.
• Flyback Chronograph – Although flyback chronographs are nowhere near as impressive as minute repeaters, it’s a neat complication that Rolex has never made.

What Will Rolex Do With Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA?

Rolex is a hard company to predict. It’s likely that Rolex will do absolutely nothing different with Carl F. Bucherer Technologies and let them continue to put their world-class high complications in Carl F. Bucherer watches. After all, Rolex makes well over a million watches per year and has about 1,300 authorized dealers to distribute them to–selling a couple hundred minute repeater watches wouldn’t really change their financial fate.

But, based on Rolex’s 2024 releases they seem to be making a concerted effort to move upmarket, and they already do make a handful of ultra-low-volume off-catalog models each year. If a Rolex Carl F. Bucherer collab resulted in an off-catalog 1908 minute repeater, would that be so wrong? Carl F. Bucherer Technologies is among the world’s top manufacturers of complicated movements, but the Carl F. Bucherer brand itself isn’t particularly strong. Just consider, what did Keanu Reeves gift his stunt crew for helping him make the John Wick movies, which were all prominently sponsored by Carl F. Bucherer? Rolexes, of course.

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Rolex 16710 GMT-Master II Collector’s Guide

The Breitling Emergency, the first wristwatch to feature a built-in personal distress beacon, was introduced in 1995. Designed with adventurers (especially pilots) in mind, its FM transmitter can broadcast on the 121.5 MHz band when its emergency antenna is unscrewed (and later models can do 406 MHz). You’d face some big fines and unhappy authorities if you activated it in a non-emergency situation, but so far nobody has ever apparently been dumb enough to do that. More than 20 Emergency wearers have been successfully rescued, though! Here’s our overview of everything you need to know about the Breitling Emergency.

Breitling sold 40,000 original Emergency models according to Forbes, and the Emergency 2 was an even greater engineering feat. Ultimately, though, the 51mm diameter and high price of the Emergency 2 greatly limited its sales, and the future of the Emergency line now seems uncertain. But before we get into that, let’s start with how the distress beacon works.

How it Works

If you unscrew the big Frankenstein-neckbolt screw on the Emergency, an antenna comes out. The emergency transmitter will immediately start broadcasting, which is why you should never play around with it in a non-emergency situation (but don’t stress too much–it’s far too tight to accidentally unscrew). In an emergency, make sure the antenna is fully extended and set the crown up for best results.

The 121.5 MHz band (along with 243 MHz, its military-only equivalent) is somewhat of a “legacy” band now but it’s still used by ships, planes and ground-based search and rescue teams. If they detect a distress signal, rescue teams can start sweeping the (large) search radius for you. Cospas-Sarsat, a joint effort between Canada, France, the US and Russia to globally monitor distress signals by satellite, also used to monitor the 121.5 MHz and 243 MHz bands, but they stopped doing so in 2009. Breitling did make a few 243 MHz Emergencies but they were, naturally, only available to the military.

What Cospas-Sarsat monitors now is 406 MHz. That’s the frequency the Breitling Emergency 2 (which hit US shelves in 2015) broadcasts on, in addition to the old 121.5 MHz band. Cospas-Sarsat’s move to the 406 MHz digital frequency in 2009 was in line with recommendations from various regulators worldwide, due to issues with the 121.5 MHz band like poor accuracy and frequent false alerts.

406 MHz digital distress signals contain information on the type of emergency, the country and identification code of the beacon, and other data to assist search and rescue operations; and a lower-powered homing signal on 121.5 MHz to guide search and rescue teams to the aircraft once they arrive in the general area. 121.5 MHz ELTs transmit an analog signal on 121.5 MHz containing only an audio alert, intended to serve both as a distress signal and a homing signal.

FCC

A 2014 UK test report of the Breitling Emergency 2 indicates that its distress signal can be activated for over 18 continuous hours if fully charged. When Cospas-Sarsat detects a distress signal on the 406 MHz band, they coordinate with local officials to start a search. The original Emergency could broadcast for closer to 48 hours on the 121.5 MHz frequency only, but that’s far less energy-intensive. If you open up a Breitling Emergency 2, you’ll see the size of the beacon’s circuit board and battery both absolutely dwarf those of the actual timekeeping unit. Now let’s go over a timeline of the three main “generations” of Breitling Emergency models: the original 43mm version, the 45mm Emergency Mission, and the 51mm Emergency 2.

Breitling Emergency (1995-2010)

The first Breitling Emergency, ref. E56021, debuted in 1995. In Breitling nomenclature, “E” signifies that the watch is titanium. With a 43mm diameter and a large bulky emergency antenna screw, it made sense to choose a lightweight material. Some miniscule tweaks (like “MHZ” on the dial becoming “MHz”) resulted in the E56121.1. E56321 models followed, which were basically unchanged except their movements got chronometer certified (although the dials do not say “chronometer”). Well, oddly, the iced-out white gold equivalent (J56321) does say “Chronometre Emergency” but those are quite rare. Yellow gold models (beginning with “K”) are also rare, but less so.

These Caliber 56-powered Breitling Emergency watches are very capable and accurate, but the movements were upgraded to SuperQuartz Caliber 76 movements in 2002, resulting in the E76321 (and K76321 and J76321). The Breitling Emergency 1 would continue to be made until 2010. Its digital displays can act as both a perpetual calendar and a stopwatch.

Breitling Emergency Mission (2003-2010)

In 2003, Breitling tried something slightly different with the Breitling Emergency Mission. It didn’t replace the regular Emergency, which resembles an Aerospace model. The Breitling Emergency Mission, which looks more like a Chronomat or Avenger, has no digital displays. It has an analog chronograph and date display, but it doesn’t have a mechanical movement–it’s still a SuperQuartz. Its slightly increased size (45mm) and larger crown make the huge emergency antenna screw look a bit less out-of-place.

Interestingly, the Breitling Emergency Mission was available in steel (A73321 and later A73322) or two-tone (B73321 and later B73322), but not titanium or solid gold. Also, the Breitling Emergency Mission dials are all either black, white, silver or navy–no bright colors like orange or yellow. So Breitling was clearly trying to visually differentiate the Emergency Mission from the original Emergency. The second generation of Mission (the -22 model designation) came out in 2007 and is identifiable for having silver-tone hour markers instead of gold. The Emergency Mission was discontinued in 2010 at the same time as the standard Emergency.

Breitling Emergency 2 (2013+)

The Breitling Emergency 2 was in development for years, so rumors of its existence were around long before its Baselworld 2013 debut. But many watch enthusiasts were skeptical that it was even possible to make a watch-sized 406 MHz personal locator beacon (PLB). Typically they’re the size of a walkie talkie.

So, although it’s easy to instinctively scoff at the size–51mm wide and over 21mm thick!–it’s actually a massive feat that Breitling made it that small to begin with. They worked with a startup called Prollion, founded in 2009, to help make a specialized battery just for them.

There are lots of federal regulations about PLB’s, so almost any seasoned Breitling salesperson will have stories of the tedious training and paperwork involved in selling the Emergency 2. Once you fill out the paperwork correctly, though, your beacon’s signal will be identifiable to you. The old Breitling Emergencies couldn’t do that.

To me, the Emergency 2 is like Breitling’s Rolex Deepsea Challenge watch–relentlessly engineered to serve a specific purpose that most watch collectors will never come close to needing. It’s important to have “look-what-we-can-do” moments in the world of luxury watch marketing. And for those few who do need it, it can (and has) saved their lives. Due to the 51mm size and a retail price over $16,000, though, not very many Emergency 2 models have been sold to normie watch collectors like me.

Breitling Emergency Specs

Model	Emergency	Emergency Mission	Emergency 2
References	E56021, E56121.1, E56321, E76321 K56321, K76321 J56321, J76321	A73321, A73322 B73321, B73322	E76325 V76325
Case Material	Titanium (E), yellow gold (K), or diamond-set white gold (J)	Steel (A) or two-tone (B)	Titanium (E) or DLC-Coated Titanium (V)
Case Size	Diameter: 43mm Thickness: 16mm Lug-to-lug: 50mm	Diameter: 45mm Thickness: 19mm Lug-to-lug: 57mm	Diameter: 51mm Thickness: 21.6mm Lug-to-lug: 63mm
Water Resistance	30m	100m	50m
Movement	Caliber 56 (Quartz), Caliber 76 (SuperQuartz)	Caliber 73 (SuperQuartz)	Caliber 76 (SuperQuartz)
Functions	Hours, minutes, digital perpetual calendar, chronograph, alarm, personal distress beacon	Hours, minutes, chronograph, date, personal distress beacon	Hours, minutes, digital perpetual calendar, chronograph, alarm, dual-band personal distress beacon
Market Price (Apr. 2024)	~$4,250	~$4,250	~$9,000

What’s a Breitling Co-Pilot?

The story of the Breitling Emergency isn’t complete if I don’t mention the Co-Pilot. Breitling Co-Pilots have a niche but loyal fan base. They’re the optional “bonus watch” on the first link of the bracelet on some models. There are simple analog versions, with either a 12-hour scale or a 24-hour scale, as well as digital models that can act as a stopwatch. Co-Pilots generally sell for more than $1,000 alone–in some cases, a lot more.

A Note About Battery Changes

Breitling AD’s won’t even change the battery on an Emergency watch. They say a factory service is necessary for every battery change, which costs over $1,000 for an Emergency 2. Yikes. That commitment is well worth it for an avid hiker or pilot who uses it regularly as a piece of survival equipment, but tough to justify as a part of a typical watch nerd’s collection.

Watchuseek user stockae92 made a helpful thread on how to change your own battery on a first-generation Breitling Emergency, and Ivan Kirov made a video of a DIY Breitling Emergency 2 battery change. One of the cool features of the Emergency 2 is that it has a rechargeable battery, and it comes with a wireless charging stand.

But that’s just the beacon’s battery. So, before you go fly your Cessna to Alaska, you should fully charge your Emergency 2 so you’ll get the full 18+ hours of digital distress signaling if you need it. The battery for the watch itself still needs regular replacing (and the beacon battery will too, eventually) no matter how often you charge the beacon battery.

Is the Breitling Emergency Discontinued?

As of May 2024, the Breitling Emergency 2 is still on Breitling’s website, available for sale in four configurations with a starting MSRP of $16,200. Black is the only remaining dial option (yellow, orange, and mother-of-pearl are all gone). The original Breitling Emergency models were discontinued long ago (2010). Although the Emergency 2 still has the old winged B logo that Breitling started phasing out in 2018, that doesn’t mean they’ve been sitting around for years. Breitling seems to be keeping the winged B around for “Professional” models like the Emergency and Endurance.

Although the Emergency 2 represented a herculean engineering feat over a decade ago, the enthusiasm for it just isn’t there. Perhaps advancements in battery technology could enable Breitling to make an Emergency 3 under 45mm in diameter someday. Until then, I think most watch nerds will pay more attention to the original Breitling Emergency and Breitling Emergency Mission models. But if you’re a pilot or hardcore hiker and you can afford the Breitling Emergency 2, why not? Nobody can see that 51mm watch in your Cessna cockpit anyway.

More on Breitling:
The Best Entry-Level Breitling Watches
Who is Universal Genève and Why Did Breitling Buy Them?
History of Breitling
The Best Breitling Watch